96-98 RobertParker.com, Drink Date: 2018 – 2035
From an old 0.67-hectare plot with high-density plantings and a low canopy wall, the 2015 Westhofen Morstein Riesling Trocken GG Alte Reben was picked in later October with 92/93° Oechsle and fermented fully dry. It intertwines intensity and power with purity, finesse and freshness like no other wine from Keller in 2015. Clear, pure, fine, fresh and smoky on the nose, with a coolish and unrivaled precise character, this highly elegant wine has great complexity. This is a finessed and singing Riesling with great old-vine intensity. It also has the purity and transparency of a fascinating terroir Riesling from limestone. The wine has that ripeness, intensity, power and concentration of 2015, but there is so much lightness, freshness, silkiness and grip here, too. The acidity is very fine, but vital, and the texture is silky. The grippy finish is full of tension, piquancy and salinity. It’s virtually endless in its weightless intensity. This is a benchmark Riesling for 2015 and the most serious rival of the 2015 Forster Pechstein from Reichsrat von Buhl. „We halved the Morstein quantity since 2011 (5,000 bottles) for the GG, because we harvest only the oldest vines now,“ says Keller, referring to the 70-year-old plot. Keller’s 2015 Morstein Riesling GG is the most finessed that I have ever tasted from this domaine. Châpeau!
