2010 Weingut Keller, Abs Erde Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Grosses Gewächs

As Keller himself remarks, his 2010 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen – Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs illustrates the proclivity of Riesling from this amazing site (for more about which, consult Issues 192 and 185) to combine creaminess of texture with utmost energy and levity. Almond and white peach, lime and grapefruit are wreathed in iris, mint, and thyme. As this expansively saturates the palate and as it takes on air, suggestions of cardamom and nutmeg, nut oils and rowan add rich allure. Seductively scented and textured, irresistibly juicy and mouthwateringly saline, this buoyant beauty finishes transparent to a kaleidoscopic, kinetic array of floral, herbal, spice and mineral nuances. I expect it will remain compellingly exhilarating for at least a decade. (Due to the paucity of the 2010 crop, Keller essayed no separate bottling from this site’s young vines as there had been from 2009.)