2010 FX PICHLER, Riesling Unendlich

96 /100 RobertParker.com

Sourced 60% from Loibenberg, the rest from Steinertal and Hohereck, Pichlers’ 2010 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich boasts pure, sweet white peach and apricot mingled with grapefruit and tinged with nut oils, piquant fruit pit, and a nettle-like herbal pungency that adds to the invigoration of a vibrant, almost torrential finish, nearly living-up to its billing as “endless.” Yet for all of this dry elixir’s sheer richness and intensity, it projects an uncanny sense of poise and elegance, and reveals nooks and crannies harboring saline, stony mineral nuances that promise intriguing as well as mouth-watering stimulation for at least the next 12-15 years. There has never been an “Unendlich” (or for that matter a Kellerberg Riesling at this address) with such analytically high acidity, and it translates into sheer energy and unusual refreshment rather than the least extraneous tartness.