The 2006 La Tâche Grand Cru is a vintage that I had not tasted since it was in barrel. But what a gorgeous wine it has turned out. The bouquet is so seductive, a heady mixture of red and blue fruit, pressed violets and citrus fruit that soar from the glass with amazing precision. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannin, velvety smooth in texture with layers of red fruit laced with black cherries, Earl Grey and even a hint of liquorice. Monitoring the wine over several minutes it seems to gain depth and persistence. Beautiful. Tasted at 67 Pall Mall.

The 2006 La Tâche is the most layered and pliant of these four 2006s. I especially admire the wine’s inner sweetness and perfume, both qualities that carry through to the creamy, expressive finish. This is a terrific showing from the 2006.